Restaurant review: Kitsune

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Petite Rue des Bouchers 25, 1000 Bruxelles

What’s good? The star of the show is without doubt the Korean Fried Mushroom burger with homemade Gochujang sauce and kimchi slaw. The mushroom nuggets are crispy while the toppings strike a delicious balance between sweet and savory. For sides, the furikake fries, topped with seaweed and sesame seeds, are a big hit. For dessert, try the gluten-free mochi brownie.

An added bonus is the readily available free tap water — a (quite literally) refreshing change from most Belgian establishments.

What’s not? This restaurant is best suited to those ready to eat vegan; it’s probably best not to bring your die-hard carnivore friends.

Vibe: Make no mistake, this is a fast-food restaurant, you won’t be hanging around for hours. The vibe is an industrial, old-school diner. The tables and chairs are second-hand furniture, and the counter is a custom design made from recycled materials.

Who’s picking up the check? The prices are fairly standard for fast food in Brussels. Burgers range from €9 to €13, and sides from €3.50 to €7. Unfortunately, they don’t accept meal vouchers.

Spotted: A large group of members from animal rights collective Anonymous for the Voiceless — obviously very happy to have a new vegan joint to congregate in.

Insider tip: The restaurant takes reservations via WhatsApp and, as it’s not a huge space, it’s likely to fill up during typical rush hours. Best to make a reservation to avoid disappointment.

Fun fact: Kitsune started out as a food truck and two pop-up restaurants, and following their success they decided to open a permanent location. Owners Pauline and Guillaume crowdfunded the necessary cash, and more than doubled their initial goal of €5,000 by preselling meals. Their success continues as they recently won a Belgian Vegan Award.

How to get there: Stop here to catch your breath after elbowing your way through crowds of tourists in the city center — it’s a three-minute walk from Grand Place or seven minutes from Gare Centrale.

— Review by Róisín O’Hara  published April 4, 2024. Illustration by Dato Parulava/POLITICO.