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York in North Yorkshire is a beautiful historic city with links to the Romans, Saxons and the Vikings. It’s full of architecture from medieval times, as well as Georgian and Victorian gems.
Given its history, a visitor can be kept busy for many days. But all visitors need a refreshment stop (or three). While visiting a traditional English pub for a pint, a packet of crisps and maybe even some proper English pub fare (a pie, fish and chips or a roast, for instance), in York you can get those stops in and continue your appreciation of the city’s distinct heritage.
The city is full of heritage pubs. After living and working in and around York for over ten years I have tirelessly tested its pubs, of which there are many. Here are five of the best must-see heritage pubs in York for those of you who like a bit of history with your pint.
1. The Blue Bell
Visiting the Blue Bell is like walking into history. A tiny two roomed pub, with a corridor linking the two, the interior has remained unchanged since 1903. As you sip one of the wonderfully kept cask ales you can observe the many Edwardian fittings, including engraved and etched glass and sashed serving hatches to the back room and corridor.
Remember that this pub is very small, it’s also popular, so getting in can be a challenge, but when you do manage to secure a space it’s very rewarding.
2. The York Tap
If you arrive into or leave York by train then The York Tap is a must visit. Within York Station, and sitting between platforms three and four the Tap is a welcome spot for weary travellers.
A central circular bar holds an impressive array of beer pumps covering traditional cask ale through to European pilsners. Originally built as a tea room (opening in 1907), it retains original art nouveau stained glass and a fabulous terrazzo floor.
3. [The Black Swan]
The Black Swan is housed in a medieval timber-framed house dating from 1417. The building became a pub in the late-16th century and was respectfully refurbished in the 1930s by the local Tadcaster Tower brewery.
With a building this old it is not surprising that the pub has some resident ghosts, sightings which reportedly include a workman in a bowler hat, a young woman in a long white dress and a pair of man’s legs which disappear walk up to the landlord’s flat. The pub even offers Ghost suppers combining food and a private ghost walk.
4. The Golden Ball
The Golden Ball dates to the late-18th or early-19th century, and was acquired by John Smiths Brewery and subjected to extensive remodelling in 1929. It is thought to be the most complete surviving interwar pub design by John Smiths. My favourite place to sit is the intimate seated alcove to the side of the bar although in the summer the tidy beer garden (where you will also find the outside toilets) is a big draw.
The Golden Ball has since 2012 been a community cooperative, with nearly 200 consumer members who have a say in how the pub is run. It is in the residential Bishophill area (although still within the city walls) and welcomes locals and visitors alike. And while you’re there, why not play a game of bar billiards?
5. The Swan
The Swan is situated in the trendy Bishopthorpe road part of the city, just outside the historic city walls. A beerhouse since 1861, it was remodelled in 1936 by Tetley’s brewery.
I can highly recommend a Friday afternoon drinking the Swan. The pub has a great selection of kept real ales and an extensive snack range. The well preserved lobby with terrazzo flooring is worth admiring. Also worth a gander are the men’s distinctive original urinals (trust me). But the best bit about is the comfortable “smoke room”, a room that was traditionally designated for smoking (my favourite spot is the immediately opposite the door to the left of the fireplace).
If you do head out into the North Yorkshire countryside or head to the coast there are plenty more heritage pubs to visit including the Birch Hall Inn (do check the limited opening hours), the Grapes (a quintessential country pub), The Lion Inn (for fantastic North York Moors views) and The Black Horse in Whitby (if you make it that far they also have accomodation and Yapas (Yorkshire Tapas).
Victoria Wells does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.
