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Rue De La Source 73
What’s good? This menu spins Korean classics into new terrain, ditching the traditional beef and sticky rice for duck-breast bulgogi and heukmi purple grains. There’s fish flavors galore with piquant anchovies, spicy octopus arms and a cracking mackerel. Lovers of comfort cooking can scarf down the KFC (Korean-style Fried Chicken) and pajeon vegetable pancakes. And don’t forget the booze: the Soju Negroni is as tart as it is heady.
What’s not? It feels like their lust for fusion risks neglecting the basics. The kimchi is pretty mild and lacks the oomph of a true winter fermentation. The pickled banchan side dishes were slightly bland, and there was no ramen — a travesty this author fears could worsen tensions with noodle-obsessed Pyongyang. Nor were there any desserts (not even a green tea cake or bingsu shaved ice!).
Vibe: Trendy and minimalist. Some 15 tables stretch from the entrance to the kitchen, with lots of wood and a wall dedicated to sweet messages left by satisfied diners. The staff were friendly and extremely patient with me and my slow-eating companion.
Who’s picking up the check? Prices were a bit steep. You get a couple of dishes each to share, which range from €12 to €17 for starters and €20 to €27 for mains. The drinks are a bit better, with a bottle of apple-flavored soju costing €5, about the same as in the Asian stores in St. Catherine (though a far-cry from the €1 of a Seoul 7-Eleven).
Spotted: Artsy types and East Asia aficionados. POLITICO went for a Friday lunch in August, so the Brussels powerbrokers were still lying on Mediterranean beaches.
Insider tip: Get the makgeolli rice wine and keep your afternoon open.
Fun fact: The restaurant is run by Korean-born, locally raised chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre, a trained pharmacist and butcher who has become one of Belgium’s top gastronomic talents.
How to get there: It’s a six-minute walk from Louise metro station or a half-hour stroll from the European quarter.
Review published on September 3, 2024. Illustration by Dato Parulava/POLITICO
