What isn’t there to like about butter pies? Warm, flaky pastry, tangy onion, soft potato and of course salty butter. I tried my first butter pie a few months ago and it was delicious. But I have been wondering, when was it created? How did it become popular?
Working roots
At the very beginning, the butter pie did not include butter. The early form of the pie was made primarily from potatoes and onions, a simple yet satisfying combination that could be prepared cheaply and easily. Butter was expensive and often only used as a treat, even though the pie is now named after it. This version of the pie was perfect for working-class families, particularly those in industries such as cotton weaving, where workers needed a filling and portable meal to take with them during long shifts. Even without butter, the pie was substantial enough to serve as a lunch that could see a worker through the day.
However, as early as 1827, records suggest that some people saved their money to purchase butter or suet to add to their pies, making them even richer. This small indulgence marked a shift in the pie’s evolution, as it transformed from a basic working-class meal into a more substantial, celebratory dish.
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Religious ties
The second reason the pie was created and became popular is rooted in Christian traditions. Preston had a large Catholic population, which was strengthened over the years. One of the key events contributing to this was the 1701 mission led by Jesuits, which served to promote and solidify Catholicism in the area. This mission, and others like it, ensured that Catholic beliefs remained a central part of the town’s identity.
In fact, Preston had such a strong Catholic presence that in 1583, it was allegedly referred to as the ‘most obstinate’ town due to its resistance to the Protestant Reformation. This steadfastness earned the town the nickname ‘Priest Town’, a reflection of its deeply rooted Catholic heritage. Some historians believe Catholic migration from Ireland to England could have pushed the need for more meat-free and potato-based dishes, alongside strengthening Catholic beliefs.
Traditionally, Catholics refrained from eating meat on Fridays, as a way of honouring the sacrifice of Jesus’ body on Good Friday. This practice was part of a broader tradition of fasting and abstinence during Lent. The butter pie served as a convenient, affordable, and filling alternative, especially as meat could be replaced by butter in the pie. The use of butter in the pie also served to distinguish it from the everyday, plain potato dishes that were more commonly eaten. By adding butter, the pie became richer and more indulgent, offering a sense of occasion and specialness. The butter pie is sometimes referred to as ‘Catholic pie’ or ‘Friday pie’, reflecting its beginnings.
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A Preston staple
As a sign of how popular the snack has become, the butter pie is now a staple at Preston football games. It was even labelled by one outlet as the world’s greatest half time snack! So, as you can imagine, many fans were disappointed when the pie stopped being served at the stadium in 2007. They were so aggrieved that they campaigned for the club to bring it back, which it did in 2010, and it has been as popular ever since.
Taste test
I have now tried two types of butter pie. One was from Booths, a more traditional butter pie, slices of potato, sliced onion and a butter sauce. It was as delicious as you would expect and I can imagine it would be especially good on a cold rainy night.
The very first butter pie I had was slightly different…It was at Aven in Preston, it was a miniature version encased in crunchy filo pastry and topped with grated truffle. Although quite different from where the pie started, the base ingredients of potato, onion and butter were still there. I must admit, not only did it look good, but it tasted great and I probably could have eaten about five more!
From weekly staple to fine dining creation, the butter pie has become a symbol of Northern food pride reclaiming its space in modern cuisine. All in all, no matter how fancy the butter pie gets, it remains a great snack! However, I am curious to try more, so I would welcome any recommendations.
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