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Photo Credit: @chlloeredman/Instagram
Tolu Coker’s AW25 showcase was more than just fashion, it was more a meditation on identity, heritage, and spirituality. Rooted in the Yoruba concept of òrí, representing one’s spiritual intuition and destiny, ORI – Upon Reflection invited audiences to slow down and embrace self-exploration.
Models carrying stalks of cotton walked through the immersive studio presentation, set to a haunting live rendition of Billie Holiday’s Strange Fruit, performed by a band led by Grammy-winning producer Gaetan Gudd. This multi-sensory experience reinforced Coker’s commitment to carving out space for Black narratives and the diasporic experience within fashion.
Photo Credit: @chlloeredman/Instagram
The collection paid homage to the flowing white garments of Aladura churches, ceremonial attire from Candomblé, Lucumí, and Santería, and the ritual dress of Black spiritual practices in Louisiana and Haiti. Expert tailoring—cinched, pleated, and layered—wove these influences together with classic European sartorial codes. The show also keyed into sustainability with dead stock wools, gabardines, tartans, and poplins grounding the collection in both cultural memory and contemporary responsibility.
Photo Credit: @chlloeredman/Instagram
Showcasing other black talents, Tolu Coker forged collaborations with Manolo Blahnik for footwear and Virna Pasquinelli for sculpted hats for another layer of historical reverence and modern craftsmanship.
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ORI – Upon Reflection was a poignant statement on the intersection of culture, faith, and selfhood. In blending the sacred with the structured, Coker redefined fashion’s role as both a mirror to the past and a blueprint for the future.
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