I have something to confess…until a few weeks ago I had never heard of parched peas nor, until recently, had I ever tried them. Yet everyone I have spoken to knows what they are and how they like them, the famous dish even gave Blog Preston’s podcast its namesake: The Parched Pea Podcast!
I was intrigued, what are they, how did they become popular and most importantly would I like them?
Legend and lore
Many of you may already know that parched peas are commonly made with carlin peas, sometimes called black badgers. Carlin peas are soaked overnight and boiled until soft. They are commonly served with salt and vinegar and eaten on cold winter nights, at fairs or at events like Bonfire Night. However, they were first eaten on what was known as ‘Carling/Carlin Sunday’, the Fifth Sunday of Lent.
There are multiple stories of how this began. One is in 1644 during the Civil War when the Royalist forces in Newcastle were saved from starvation due to a large cargo ship which had gotten stranded on their shores. It is believed that the locals gathered up the peas that the ship was carrying and feasted on them that Sunday, finally satisfying their hunger.
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It then became tradition that the fifth Sunday of Lent they would eat the peas as way of remembering these events. This were also for practical reasons: pulses were a cheap and easy alternative to meat (which many people abstained from during Lent). Historian Peter Brears highlights that whilst we are unsure if the story is true, it would explain where the peas get their name as ‘carling’ refers to a type of beam on a ship.
A complex pea
Another version is a similar story but set in 1327 when the people of Newcastle were apparently saved from starvation, after being set upon by Robert the Bruce’s forces. Apparently a French or Norwegian vessel carrying a shipment of the peas crashed and the locals, pillaging the ship for food, found them.
Others have claimed that the peas became a popular northern dish after being introduced by the Scots who would eat the peas as part of a Pagan festival, during which they worshipped a female goddess of fertility. The evidence for this story being true is primarily that ‘carlin’ was used in Scottish dialect to refer to an ‘old woman’, the term is even featured in poems by Robert Burns. As for the ‘parched’ part, this refers to the way the dish is made as ‘parched’ was an old term for boiling.
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A staple for the masses
As you would guess, many people were not overly concerned with the origins of ‘parched peas’ or where the name comes from. What people loved about parched peas was that they were easy. They were relatively cheap to buy in bulk and widely available making them accessible to many families, particularly those who had lower wages. These families were able to buy the dried peas, store them easily and feed a large family with little expense. Additionally, the peas were filling, nutritious and easy to cook with few, if any, additional ingredients required.
The cooking technique through the years is largely unchanged. However, in ‘Lenten Fare and Food for Fridays’, a cookbook from 1959, Constance Cruikshank describes a recipe where soaked peas were steamed, sieved, and mixed with salt, butter, and cream. The result would be similar to a pease pudding and it was served with meat and vegetables. In other areas they would add sugar and even rum to the peas to create a sweet alternative, although I am not sure how effective this was!
A popular treat
Parched peas were also an economical food option for pubs to sell to customers, often salted to make the customers thirsty and buy more drinks, a bit like the nuts you might get at your local! Moreover, they were popular at fairs as they could be made far in advance and easily reheated if needed. Parched peas have long been served at events such as Bonfire Night or New Year due to the harvest being completed in October/November.
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First taste
I have finally tried this famous Lancashire dish. I must admit I found carlin peas difficult to find in my local supermarkets. I finally got hold of some from Holland and Barrett and made the famous parched peas. I was pleasantly surprised, they tasted like a small, nutty boiled potatoes and felt oddly healthy to eat. However, I am not as sure about the texture and unless they were piping hot, I would find them slightly difficult to get down.
Please let me know how you enjoy parched peas or which recipes you follow!
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